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The rising popularity of second-hand goods is upsetting the balance of the traditional luxury market.

Houses
Brands brave the Wild West of the second-hand market

The second-hand market is exploding, leaving the luxury sector with a new battle on its hands. Between platforms that lack transparency, counterfeits that are impossible to detect and brands that are scrambling to regain control, the absence of regulation is benefiting the most agile.

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Simon Porte Jacquemus is trying, without investors, to transform his namesake label into an established brand.

Houses
Jacquemus, season 2

After 15 years as a fashion world prodigy, Provence-born designer Simon Porte Jacquemus is now trying, without investors, to transform his namesake label into an established brand. He may have succeeded in making Jacquemus a part of the Zeitgeist, but will the sales of his "Chiquito" bags and "Artichoke" bucket hats be enough to finance a global expansion?

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Russia is one of the world's leading diamond producers. Amid the war in Ukraine, the jewellery industry has been struggling to find alternatives to Russian stones.

Houses
Jewellery sector's quest for clarity

With Russia a leading producer, diamonds have seen their prices plummet since the start of the war in Ukraine. The industry, highly concentrated around a few major players, has been experimenting with synthetic stones and other gems, but is struggling to find a clear-cut solution.

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The Hôtel Pozzo di Borgo, on rue de l'Université in Paris, was the scene of parties and dinners that the luxury world is still talking about.

Entourage
Karl Lagerfeld's long-time mansion, a luxury playground in Paris

The Hôtel Pozzo di Borgo on the Rue de l'Université in Paris was Karl Lagerfeld's primary residence for almost 30 years. The dinners and parties held within its walls still have the luxury world talking, years after the designer's death.

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Former Qatari prime minister Hamad bin Jassim bin Jaber Al Thani and Irish developer Patrick McKillen are at loggerheads.

Entourage
From the Martinez to Claridge's, hostilities rage between five-star hotel mogul Paddy McKillen and Qatar

Former Qatari prime minister Hamad bin Jassim bin Jaber Al Thani has been at loggerheads with his one-time business partner, the Irish developer Patrick McKillen, since 2022 over a globe-spanning constellation of five-star hotels, including the Maybourne Riviera in France, Claridge's and The Connaught in London, and the Maybourne Beverly Hills in California.

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The market for counterfeit luxury goods has exploded in recent years.

Houses
The geopolitics of fake goods

The counterfeit market has exploded in recent years, from fake Hermès Birkins to fake Chanel 2.55s, fake luxury trainers to fake Rolex watches. Thanks in part to the internet, but first and foremost to the current global geopolitical situation, the quality of counterfeit luxury goods is improving - to the extent that even experts have a hard time distinguishing real from fake.

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The Ritz Paris has been in turmoil since accusations of sexual abuse against its late owner.

Families
The Ritz after Al-Fayed

The Ritz Paris has faced numerous challenges since the death of its long-standing owner, Egyptian business mogul, Mohamed Al-Fayed. The world's most famous luxury hotel has to live with the risk of seeing its reputation tarnished by the onslaught of sexual assault allegations levelled against Al-Fayed.

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The Qatari ruling family has become a major luxury player.

Families
Qatar's royal family: luxury's silent investor

Through Luxembourg trusts, Qatar's royal family has become a major player in the luxury sector. From fashion heavyweight Valentino to five-star hotel chain Maybourne Hotels Group, the Al Thani dynasty has bought up one prestigious brand after the other, but the family goes to great lengths to ensure it is never identified as the ultimate beneficiary.

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Hermès retains the battle scars from the aborted LVMH raid of the early 2010s.

Houses
Hermès heirs at odds

The target of an aborted raid by LVMH in the early 2010s, Hermès still bears the battle scars of that operation. Wealth manager Éric Freymond, who played an instrumental role in the luxury giant's takeover bid, still holds shares in the leather goods brand and remains close to several of founder Émile Hermès's heirs.

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Karl Lagerfeld.

Families
The secrets of Karl Lagerfeld's estate

Nearly four years after Karl Lagerfeld's death, the question of who will inherit his estate and how much is at stake remains unresolved. It's a subject shrouded in secrecy, much like the designer himself, but Glitz.

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The Bulgari family has been torn apart by a row between two fourth-generation sisters.

Families
The battle of the Bulgari heiresses

The Bulgari family, founders of the namesake jewellery company, has been torn apart by a bitter row between two fourth-generation sisters over control of two trusts totalling $130m. The sisters' animosity has rattled their entire clan, which could eventually have an impact on LVMH, where the Bulgaris are the second-largest family shareholders.

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The 21 heirs to fashion designer Pierre Cardin are at odds with his grand-nephew, Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin.

Families
The feud over Pierre Cardin's estate

Since Pierre Cardin's death in December 2020, the Italian-born French designer's 21 heirs, from seven different family lines, have been at loggerheads with his great-nephew Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin, who was named sole beneficiary in a will discovered in bizarre circumstances posthumously.

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Bernard Arnault's group is keeping tabs on a series of historic houses and biding its time.

Houses
Bernard Arnault's shopping list

Since its creation in the late 1980s, LVMH has grown continuously by buying up existing, often longstanding brands. Although there have been no new acquisitions since Tiffany & Co in 2021, Bernard Arnault's luxury giant keeps a close eye on a number of historic fashion houses, biding its time.

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Luxury goods were among the first sectors to be affected by sanctions against Russia.

Houses
How luxury navigates the war in Ukraine

Since Russia invaded Ukraine in February 2022, economic sanctions have been mounting up against the Kremlin. While the luxury sector was one of the first to be affected, with brands forced to shutter their shops in Russia in the weeks following the outbreak of war, some companies are seeking ways around the sanctions.

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