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Spotlight | France
Fast fashion meets French politics: the Shein–BHV backlash

By Noëmie Leclercq

Published on 21.10.2025 at 05:00 GMT Reading time 6 min

Ultra-fast-fashion giant Shein's arrival at Paris department store BHV has sparked political and industry backlash. © Studio Pachamama

When Frédéric Merlin invited Chinese fast-fashion giant Shein into his BHV department store in Paris, he said it was a revolutionary way to revive city-centre retail. Instead, the move triggered a revolt by long-standing brands, outrage from City Hall and unease in government circles.

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BHV
Unpaid bills from Frédéric Merlin era cast shadow over new bosses

With the exit of BHV's chief executive, the management team now in charge may have hoped to start afresh at the troubled Parisian department store, but there are ongoing problems with several luxury brands. These include legal cases over outstanding invoices that total over €1m, Glitz has discovered.

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The Parisian department store is still contending with the fallout from Frédéric Merlin’s unhappy tenure as CEO

BHV
Frédéric Merlin seeks to fend off legal action by brands over payment arrears

Contending with a first court case, which may be followed by others, the boss of the BHV department store has gone into crisis mode. If he loses the case, he could be barred from being a company director.

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Fast fashion
Shein comes clean about its lobbying on French legislation

Under the scrutiny of France's lobbying watchdog, the Chinese giant has published a more detailed account of its efforts to influence legal definitions of fast fashion and to resist tighter constraints being imposed on its business activities.

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EY plays the ethical card to attract luxury sector clients

The professional services giant is looking to extend its presence in the luxury sector by focusing on corporate social responsibility issues. And it has come up with some novel marketing ploys to stand out from the pack.

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Shein loses its chief lobbyist

The fast-fashion giant's government relations director, Fabrice Layer, has announced in-house that he is leaving. The company, which has been mired in controversy of late, will be looking to replace him as soon as possible.

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French lobbying watchdog probes Shein and Christophe Castaner's company

The Chinese fast-fashion giant, which already faces suspension proceedings in France, is also being investigated by the country's lobbying watchdog. Villanelle Conseil, the company owned by former interior minister Castaner, is also involved in these investigations.

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Bergdorf Goodman takes former merchandising director to court to protect its secrets

Saks Global, owner of the upmarket New York department store, is suing Yumi Shin. The group is concerned that the former executive will reveal its corporate secrets to one of its main rivals.

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Printemps persuades court to unfreeze disputed cash

The Qatari-owned parent company of the iconic Parisian department store has won the latest battle in its long-running war with the founder of its furniture subsidiary.

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Frédéric Merlin blames BHV's late payments on former owners

The new boss of the Paris department store has been publicly criticised for the late payment of invoices by several brands, one of which took BHV to court over a separate issue. During the court hearings, Merlin put the problem down to the shortcomings of the IT system inherited from Galeries Lafayette.

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Palais Galliera hires top aide to outgoing Paris mayor

One of Anne Hidalgo's closest associates is about to start working for the French capital's fashion museum.

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Luxury sector campaigns for anti-copying bill at AI summit

UNIFAB, the body which defends the intellectual property of French luxury goods brands, is looking for support for a bill setting up a legal framework for the use of artificial intelligence by fast-fashion websites.

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Front Row
Shein lobbyist Fabrice Layer: luxury friend or foe?

With the French government poised to introduce new regulation on fast fashion, Chinese giant Shein has Huawei's former head of public affairs, Fabrice Layer, fighting its cause. Shein may be the luxury sector's sworn enemy, but high-end brands have much to gain from its lobbying efforts.

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Fabrice Layer, head of public affairs at Chinese fast-fashion giant Shein.

Front Row
Pascal Morand and the politics of fashion

Every week, Glitz presents "Front Row," offering an insider's view of the luxury sector's most influential figures, from household names to the ones-to-watch. This week: meet Pascal Morand, the politically-minded number two at France's Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM), who has forged a network stretching far beyond the world of fashion and luxury.

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Pascal Morand, executive chairman of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM).

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Spotlight | France
Fast fashion meets French politics: the Shein–BHV backlash

When Frédéric Merlin invited Chinese fast-fashion giant Shein into his BHV department store in Paris, he said it was a revolutionary way to revive city-centre retail. Instead, the move triggered a revolt by long-standing brands, outrage from City Hall and unease in government circles.

This article may be accessed by subscribers

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Create your free account

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Related topics to this article

Read also

BHV
Unpaid bills from Frédéric Merlin era cast shadow over new bosses

BHV
Frédéric Merlin seeks to fend off legal action by brands over payment arrears

Fast fashion
Shein comes clean about its lobbying on French legislation

EY plays the ethical card to attract luxury sector clients

Shein loses its chief lobbyist

French lobbying watchdog probes Shein and Christophe Castaner's company

Bergdorf Goodman takes former merchandising director to court to protect its secrets

Printemps persuades court to unfreeze disputed cash

Frédéric Merlin blames BHV's late payments on former owners

Palais Galliera hires top aide to outgoing Paris mayor

Luxury sector campaigns for anti-copying bill at AI summit

Front Row
Shein lobbyist Fabrice Layer: luxury friend or foe?

Front Row
Pascal Morand and the politics of fashion

About Glitz

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Glitz on social media

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About Glitz

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Indigo Publications' websites

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Spotlight | France Fast fashion meets French politics: the Shein–BHV backlash

When Frédéric Merlin invited Chinese fast-fashion giant Shein into his BHV department store in Paris, he said it was a revolutionary way to revive city-centre retail. Instead, the move triggered a revolt by long-standing brands, outrage from City Hall and unease in government circles.

This article may be accessed by subscribers

Do you want a free trial before subscribing?

Create your free account

create a free account

Related topics to this article

Read also

BHV Unpaid bills from Frédéric Merlin era cast shadow over new bosses

BHV Frédéric Merlin seeks to fend off legal action by brands over payment arrears

Fast fashion Shein comes clean about its lobbying on French legislation

EY plays the ethical card to attract luxury sector clients

Shein loses its chief lobbyist

French lobbying watchdog probes Shein and Christophe Castaner's company

Bergdorf Goodman takes former merchandising director to court to protect its secrets

Printemps persuades court to unfreeze disputed cash

Frédéric Merlin blames BHV's late payments on former owners

Palais Galliera hires top aide to outgoing Paris mayor

Luxury sector campaigns for anti-copying bill at AI summit

Front Row Shein lobbyist Fabrice Layer: luxury friend or foe?

Front Row Pascal Morand and the politics of fashion

About Glitz

Subscription

Glitz on social media

Indigo Publications' websites

Spotlight | France
Fast fashion meets French politics: the Shein–BHV backlash

BHV
Unpaid bills from Frédéric Merlin era cast shadow over new bosses

BHV
Frédéric Merlin seeks to fend off legal action by brands over payment arrears

Fast fashion
Shein comes clean about its lobbying on French legislation

Front Row
Shein lobbyist Fabrice Layer: luxury friend or foe?

Front Row
Pascal Morand and the politics of fashion