It was seemingly minor details that alerted a group of savvy collectors. Of the 150 or so Lady Dior bags in "exotic leather" spotted on international second-hand platforms, the inner label, which should be made of the same leather – crocodile, ostrich or python – as the bag for high-end and vintage models, was actually made of embossed leather, a much less prestigious material.

On some models, it was the silver "DIOR" lettering that