The French Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM), a Paris fashion institution, has long been buoyed by its successive presidents' charm and charisma. Former institute heads include Didier Grumbach, (1998-2014) and, more recently, Ralph Toledano (2014-2022). But, since Chanel's fashion director Bruno Pavlovsky was elected president in July 2022, the FHCM has morphed into a two-headed organisation, with all press releases, interviews and events featuring its executive director, academic